Eulonia, GA to Brunswick, GA

32.8 mi / 12.7 mph / 225 ft. climbing
Home: Blythe Island Regional Park

Yesterday we were running the A/C in our motel room, and this morning I needed to turn on the heat. A blast of cold autumn air has finally made it to the southeast. Even though we left our room well after sunrise, we rode for at least an hour with the thermometer stuck at 50℉. The gusty wind had Rett hopping up and down in the middle of the grocery store parking lot, where she found a patch of sun, to stay warm while eating our 2nd-breakfast.

US-17 remained reasonably quiet as it paralleled I-95. The biggest problem was the 12- to 18-inch shoulder on the other side of the rumble strip. I spent most of my time riding where Rett is now, to “encourage” cars to move into the other lane to pass…
…while Rett preferred to thread the line between the rumble strip and the grass, which had the advantage of giving extra buffer between her and passing cars (especially if they had to go around me sitting further out in the lane), but required a lot of attention to stay out of the bone-shakers/breakers.
Entering Darien, there was a rare opportunity to get off the highway, and it was a totally worthwhile detour because it took us down this suddenly-backwoods-Georgia road.
Like, I’m surprised we didn’t hear someone plucking a banjo on one of these porches.
If only our entire ride could have been on this barely-a-road!
After Darien, we crossed four tributaries(?)/branches(?)/cousins(?) of the Altamaha River in quick succession (rivers refuse to follow standard river rules in this region). The strong crosswind made it a challenge to hug that shoulder, not just on the bridges themselves, but also in the unforested islands that the bridges connected.

On the extreme outskirts of Brunswick we hit a section of US-17 where an entire new roadway was being built alongside it, despite the existing road being entirely sufficient to handle the current amount of traffic. Presumably it’s preparation for big subdivisions being dropped into the forest, in this “Westernmost Point of the East Coast” (and thus, supposedly hurricane-protected, as I’d seen it advertised somewhere). I saw a new “School Zone Speed Limit” sign by one of the blocks of cleared land, and thought “huh, I guess that must be for the school they’re going to build here in 5 years.” But no, there was an elementary school sitting in the forest along this highway, miles from where the nearest kid could ride her bike (much less walk) to school. What I’m trying to say is that they do land-use really badly around here!

Before Darien, a huge brand new country recreation complex also had appeared in the middle of the forest, with four baseball fields and (unusually), two football fields with full goalposts. I thought maybe that was where the nearby, also-disconnected-from-anything high school played/practiced, but no, they had their own football field. Maybe pick-up football games on full-sized fields are just more of thing in Georgia than in most places? Then we hit a section where there was a miles-long sidewalk paralleling (but well off) the highway for no particular reason, but it was a more-relaxed place for us to ride our bikes, so no complaints about that particular land-use decision.

We strategically stopped for lunch along this strange “rural sidewalk”, where the trees on the left blocked the wind, but we could still sit in the full sun to keep us warm.
Another view of the strange rural sidewalk and its gap from the highway; I guess they’re leaving space for the inevitable road-doubling here too?
US-17 is the only road entering and exiting Blythe Island (I-95 traverses it, but doesn’t have an exit), so traffic got tougher in the final miles (especially since the crosswind was still in force in the again wide-open waterscape).

It’s been 19 days (or 11 riding days) since we’ve camped, and if that’s not a record for us, it feels like one. As we settled into our camp-routines, I realized the lack of camping is a big part of what has made the last couple of days feel relatively aimless to me. Early in my career of bike touring I discovered that it was actually the camping that drew me back to it more than the pedaling, and apparently pitching a tent remains an important part to me.

The palm-bushes ringing our campsite, and the Spanish Moss hanging above, made it even more special to pitch our tent. I’ve never camped in a place that looks like this, partly because our last time camping was in North Carolina! Blythe Island is a county park, so we won’t actually get to know what Georgia State Parks are like (nor did we visit a South Carolina State Park), but the county park was really nice. Individual shower rooms, firewood delivered to our site (especially useful for us!), and a nice quiet mostly-empty tent-camping section on this Friday night.

Our site (P9) at Blythe Island Regional Park.
It may be chilly, but the three full days without a single cloud in the sky help make it survivable.
The palm-bush things that make a nice buffer between campsites.
This strange skinny-looking ship was seen from a campsite across from our own.
Water is everywhere in this region, but it always comes in the form of swamps or rivers, so this “lake” at Blythe Island is very unusual (I’m guessing it’s not entirely natural).
Sun setting through the Spanish Moss.
Firewood was relatively-expensive at $10 a “bundle”, but the bundle was 15 pieces, so more like two standard bundles.
A campfire, a scotch, and a cigar: the life!

While Rett was in the tent readying for bed and I was sitting by the fire she heard (over the distant roar of nearby I-95) something large crashing around in the palm-bushes. I got up to investigate and heard two of them in two different areas, but couldn’t see anything even with my headlamp. But my headlamp did nothing to pause their crashing around. It didn’t feel like whatever they were had an interest in us or our food (or in being stealthy). Rett made a good guess that they might be armadillos, who we have seen frequently dead on the side of the road, but never alive. Tonight would not change that, but at least we heard them!


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