Travel Journal

  • Lago del Desierto, AR to El Chaltén, AR

    Lago del Desierto, AR to El Chaltén, AR

    In the middle of the night I rolled over and rubbed my face, and was confused when my hand felt a weird organic grit. The gusty evening winds had returned as we were going to sleep, likely more of the katabatic winds tumbling down the slopes of the deep and narrow north-south valley that we Read more…

  • Villa O’Higgins, CL to Lago del Desierto, AR

    Villa O’Higgins, CL to Lago del Desierto, AR

    Today’s super-early 3:15am wakeup was not due to our own preference (e.g., to avoid heat, wind, etc.), nor would it be compensated for by an equally-early end to the day’s efforts. It was because the company running the boat to take us to a remote shore on Lake O’Higgins decided that early morning was the Read more…

  • Río Colorado, CL to Villa O’Higgins, CL

    Río Colorado, CL to Villa O’Higgins, CL

    Our final ride on the Carretera Austral would be a short one, so we “slept in” and didn’t hit the road until 8:40am. By that point a couple of the ~5 people in the bunkhouse were up-and-about, but we were still the first ones to depart. One of our main motivations for “racing” yesterday (besides Read more…

  • Río Bravo, CL to Río Colorado, CL

    Río Bravo, CL to Río Colorado, CL

    Our alarm dinged us awake at 5am. I had to tiptoe past two tents (and near a third) to exit the outbuilding we were all sheltered in, but given the near-continuous snoring from the guy closest to us, it seemed that at least he didn’t mind. In order to give some respect to the late-risers, Read more…

  • Lago Vargas, CL to Río Bravo, CL

    Lago Vargas, CL to Río Bravo, CL

    We had been counting on the food truck/restaurant at Lago Vargas for yesterday’s lunch and dinner, but assumed that we would need to carry our own breakfast with us because, #1, food trucks don’t usually serve breakfast, and #2, even if they did, they wouldn’t be serving at the super-early time we like to leave. Read more…

  • Los Ñadis, CL to Lago Vargas, CL

    Los Ñadis, CL to Lago Vargas, CL

    A 37°F temperature when we woke up, following yesterday’s cool air, meant that we now had a trend. But with no wind, and the two “rooms” (delineated by large rocks) at our wild campsite, it was still a comfortable and easy morning. Then why did we get rolling 30 minutes later than Rett planned to? Read more…

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