Even though we had a proposed solution for Rett’s instinctive reaction to horsefly attacks, we hadn’t actually tested it, so we again tried to use the time of day to minimize their combative interactions. But we were slightly-more relaxed than yesterday, meaning we got up at 5am, and were rolling out a little after 7am. Read more…

“We’re getting up at midnight to start riding again”, Rett had declared yesterday afternoon at the height of the horsefly assault. Adhering to an activity cycle unaligned with your predators is a time-tested evolutionary adaptation, and I agreed that is was likely to be our most-effective solution too. We didn’t go quite as extreme as Read more…

The “bimodal” ferry from Hornopiren to Caleta Gonzalo is a much bigger deal than the ~40 minute ferry we took on our first day on the Carretera Austral. It’s an hours-long trip, with a road segment sandwiched between two water segments, runs once a day (at least for the version that takes bikes) and requires Read more…

Somehow our room managed to cool down enough relatively quickly, allowing us to get a good night’s sleep (even though Rett and Lamby were far away in a whole separate bed!) We emerged into a cooler, cloudier day, which was good because we hit some hills with double-digit grades at the beginning, forcing Rett to Read more…

It was hot. Already by the time we had loaded up and left our little holiday house, shorts and a t-shirt were all I needed. We had extended our original 14-day booking to 16 days, mostly because that’s when there was space on an upcoming ferry (though partly because a couple more days of stationary Read more…

With our AirBNB’s driveway connecting to the highway, we just continued straight along the route we’d been on yesterday evening, back into the left-side bike lanes that inexplicably* continue for 25 more miles along the south shore of Lake Llanquihue to Puerto Varas (*my guess is that it again has something to do with the Read more…