Huaraz, PE

Day 6

24.2 mi / 7.9 mph / 2496 ft. climbing
Home: Nancy’s AirBNB

After a day of rest, it was time to try a longer, higher bike ride. It would still be an unloaded out-and-back (or more-accurately, “up-and-down”), but this time on pavement the whole way.

It quickly turned into what must be one of the most-spectacular day-rides in the world. Minimal traffic on the narrow road made it feel like our own bike path for most of the time, a bike path that in a mere 12 miles takes you from a bustling city of 120,000 people to a world-class National Park of towering mountains (or barely 6 miles as the crow flies!)

Normally on a mountain-climbing ride, you’re able to observe changes in vegetation as altitude increases. And while we could definitely do that, proximity to the city meant that in addition, we could also observe human-related changes in the same way. On our initial cut across the city (which initially dropped us 100 feet) we passed dozens of bustling shops and services, and then began climbing eastward on a PE-14A, a less-busy road taking us away from the city, but one still felt very urban.

This section of cobblestone-ish street on our way out of the city was our roughest bit of road for the whole ride, but the narrow, old-world feel made the bumps easier to take.

When the switchbacks began, the road narrowed to little more than one lane, but remained smooth asphalt all the way up. The “city” dwindled into a series of small “villages”, where most of the houses in between had small agricultural plots (frequently with some corn), and sometimes livestock.

Heading up PE-14A through a village above Huaraz.
Just an old man and his dog, walking his cow and donkeys up the road (one of the few places where a center-line was painted).
Sheep wondering “where’s she going?”
This is essentially a real-life version of our Lamby. She’s even wearing the same red collar! (though this lamb’s might be the red and white stripes of the Peruvian flag.)
Some of the plots running up the hillside could have been pulled straight from Hobbiton.
A woman using a rock to hammer in an iron stake to tie her cow to.
Down below, Huaraz, the 19th-largest city in Peru, shines in its valley.

As we rose higher, the settlements dwindled (though never completely vanished), and the views opened up into Huascaran National Park. The grade averaged something like 5%, but there would be sections of 9% to challenge our breathing as we crossed 12,000 ft., the highest we’ve ever been on our bicycles (though unlike our previous high at 11,990 ft. Loveland Pass in Colorado, we didn’t pedal ourselves all the way up from sea-level).

A small dip before we continue climbing to the mountains.
A literal and figurative “stop to catch your breath”.
Area sheep oblivious to the environment he gets to live in.
Nearing our destination, the land suddenly opened into this relatively flat alpine meadow (or, 12,000 ft. cow pasture).
Heading for that gap in the mountains.
Topped out, we get a slight downhill to the dot-on-the-map of Pitec.

Pitec is the name of the place where a hike to an alpine lake (Laguna Churup) begins. There is one house, a parking lot, and essentially a tent where women cook food over a fire to sell to hikers. There were half-a-dozen hikers hanging out, waiting for their rides to take them back down to Huaraz. We continued 50 yards further down the road, clambered up a small rise of rocks, and set up our chairs to enjoy our packed lunch with 360-degree views. Satisfied with our ability to climb 2500 feet in 12 miles, and sufficiently tired, we will save the hike for another day! (also, the afternoon clouds were darkening, so it was time to head back down the mountain anyway.)

This sheep didn’t even ask for a tip after providing the perfect pose.
The road continues up the valley, turning to gravel at some point, but we ended our exploration here.
Several dogs were hanging around here, and this one waited patiently the entire time we were eating (but sadly got chased off by a bigger dog just as we were finishing, so he missed his promised Cheeto from Rett).
Mountains. These top out at “only” ~18,000 ft.
Back down at our AirBNB roof deck, sharing a craft beer, Sierra Andina’s “Killa Spice Ale”.

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