Kosciusko, MS to Ackerman, MS

34.1 mi / 12.3 mph / 738 ft. climbing
Home: Jeff Busby Campground

The National Weather Service warned of “hen egg”-sized hail, amongst other severe weather chances (tornadoes, 70mph winds) for early this morning. I heard plenty of thunder in my pre-wakeful state, and some flashes were bright enough to make it through both the curtains and my eyelids, but I never felt the motel start to shake.

Curiously, the power did go out for a couple of minutes while we were making breakfast, well after the line of storms had passed. And then when we set out, a light mist coated our glasses, making it feel very much like our first day on the Trace. But there was no litter of leaves or branches to be seen anywhere along the forested corridor, so it seems the storm went easy on us.

After our previous flattish day on the Natchez Trace Parkway, hills definitely returned today, including one that used a 6% grade to bring us to nearly 600 feet above sea level, the most-rarefied air we’ve breathed since New York. After a busier bit of traffic near Kosciusko, we finally got down near the 1-overtaking-car-per-mile rate of our first day on the Trace.

A car (yes, they exist!) exiting the tree tunnel on the Trace.
The mile posts on the Trace mean that, for better or worse, you always know how many miles you’ve pedaled (and thus, have remaining!)

The mist returned while we were eating lunch at a cypress swamp, along with surprising chilliness that made us both put on an extra top layer. Over the next couple miles, the temperature dropped at least five degrees, down to 64F, not something that normally happens at 1pm!

Rett stands at the far end of Coles Creek running through a cypress swamp.
Fairies live at the cypress swamp.
The park-like Natchez Trace Parkway.

It remained gray and cool and slightly misty when we rolled into Jeff Busby Campground. We had roasted at our first free Trace campground several days ago, so yesterday Rett had asked if this one had shade, but it turns out that sun would be more valuable! Unlike Rocky Springs, Busby at least has water and toilets, and on this cool day, the to absence of showers didn’t even hurt too badly. However, it was even more full (at 2:15pm on Monday!) than Rocky Springs had been, and we only had two or three (vaguely defined) spots to choose from.

Our site at Jeff Busby Campground.

While we were eating dinner, the clouds finally cleared out, so I took a short hike up “Little Mountain”, which genuinely has views from the top! Rett stayed down enjoying time with Bella, whose dad is a fellow long-term (though camper-based) nomad.

Moss and bark.
Sun “setting” over a ridge in the Mississippi woods.
I asked the guy in the Kosciusko Information Center if Mardi Gras is a thing further north here, and he said no. But then how do you explain this tree being covered in Mardi Gras beads?!?
View from the top of 591-foot Little Mountain.
The spring colors on the treetops almost look like fall colors.
It’s been so long since I’ve seen a view like this. Closest thing recently was from the top of a roller coaster at Universal Orlando!
Closeup of the white flowering trees we’ve been passing for days on the Trace, which Google Lens is now able to tell me is a dogwood.
Bella is all Rett needs for a good evening in camp.

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Comments

2 responses to “Kosciusko, MS to Ackerman, MS”

  1. Russ & Bella Saylor Avatar
    Russ & Bella Saylor

    It was a pleasure to meet you at Jeff Busby camp. Bella had a great time putting a smile on your face. I appreciate the picture you posted as the joy on both of your faces. Safe travels and may our paths cross again.

    1. neil Avatar
      neil

      Hey Russ, amazed that you found us online since we (stupidly) don’t recall sharing many good clues…maybe Google is finally getting better at indexing our site? Anyway, glad you were able to see another angle on Rett and Bella, and thanks for sharing her! I say that every bit of on-the-road doggie love that Rett gets gives us another week that Rett can keep traveling before settling down with a dog of her own, so we both very much appreciate it! Which yes, increases the chances that we’ll see you both out there again someday!

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