Huaraz, PE

Our stay in Huaraz has now exceeded a month, which is more than twice as long as we originally intended. And while I won’t say that we’re glad that Rett’s bike crash forced us to stay here longer, we’re at least glad that this was the place where we spent that extra time. It’s really helped to give us that “huh, we’re living in Peru” feeling that we’re occasionally able to embody in our otherwise-transient lifestyle. With our regular trips to the grocery stores and the market, they become more familiar, we recognize the dogs we pass on the street, we observe the progress on the many significant construction projects around town, and we’ve even been drawn back to the same restaurants multiple times. And unlike other places where we’ve spent a couple weeks or a month, we didn’t just stay holed up inside our AirBNB (as nice and comfortable as it was!)

Looking down from our 3rd-level terrace, this little girl would hurtle in the other direction down the 8% grade in her little car, flying through the uncontrolled intersection, and stop only when she rammed into a concrete planter in the street. I thought maybe it was cosmic turnabout and I would now be the one required to give medical aid to a stranger, but somehow she survived, with her brother to push her back up the hill each time.
A dog I hadn’t seen before talks to me from his rooftop across the street.

So we stayed busy for our final week. We got back to some bike training, repeating rides we’d done earlier. First up was our third ride up PE-14A to Pitec. I was proud of Rett for suppressing her understandable fears and returning to the scene of her crash.

A woman working her field on our ride up to Pitec.
The people on this mountainside live very undeveloped lives by Western standards, but that doesn’t mean everything is purely utilitarian, as this heart-shaped flower vine shows.
Now on our third time up this route, the views are slightly less mind-blowing, but still pretty amazing.
And the lambs are still cute.
This domed sewer cover (or the next one 20 yards down) was the cause of Rett’s crash a couple weeks ago. And the oncoming truck is standing in for the van that she slid down in front of.

A couple days later, for our final training ride, we repeated our very first Huaraz day ride, up to Rataquenua and Puka Ventana. While our ride to Pitec was disappointingly (yet understandably) slower than our previous attempt, our ride to Rataquenua was significantly faster than our first one. Mostly it was proof that we have become much more acclimated to the altitude, since we almost never needed to stop to catch our breath this time.

Rett was also probably a bit better at riding on the rough gravel above Rataquenua.
Climbing 1000+ feet above Huaraz, but less than a mile away.
We went a bit further than last time, here reaching a point where the road kisses the sheer cliff face of the bowl.
A roadside spot with a great view to enjoy with our lunch. And in fact the mountain on the right surrounds Laguna Churup that we bike-and-hiked to a couple weeks ago.
A faint white line near the lower right, sloping up the mountain, is the “Great Wall of China” hiking path that we climbed to Laguna Churup. And everything along the bottom is the bike ride up PE-14A. Just cool to see our previous adventures from this distant perspective.
Huaraz on the left, a clifftop herd of sheep on the right.
The woman tending this flock was very friendly, smiling and greeting us both times we passed as we both moved up and down the mountain.
The rock fins of Puka Ventana.
A couple of these cacti were growing near the cliff-edge.
Our AirBNB is right near the center of this photo, but unfortunately blocked by a taller building in front of it.

In between those rides, we went on a quest through the city to find a pair of leggings to replace Rett’s Lululemons, torn in the crash. We found a couple possibilities, but in the end she decided to just have me stitch the holes closed. It did mean that we finally made it far enough north in the city to check out the riverwalk.

The guy on the right is some kind of statue, but the guy in the middle is REALLY some kind of statue!
Some nice gardens lined the riverwalk, but the river itself was lined with trash.

On another day, we got a surprise visit from Eva, our AirBNB hostess (and far more than that title implies!) She had more of her wonderful eggs for us, but then a gift even greater! She had met Lamby during Rett’s injury, and immediately understood “our daughter’s” role (the AirBNB is cozily decorated with numerous dolls, figurines, and stuffed animals, after all). Her and Lamby might have even had a secret chat on her once-a-week bedding/towel change that she does while we’re out. The upshot is that Eva gave us a “Huaracina Lamby”, a stuffed Peruvian lamb for us to remember our stay in Huaraz by.

Not only was it an incredibly thoughtful gift (and obviously the first gift we’ve ever gotten from an AirBNB host!), it was especially touching because it again gave us the feeling that Rett’s mom was reaching her daughter through the vessel of this wonderful Peruvian woman. Because not everyone “gets” why a couple of 40-somethings are attached to stuffed animals (understandably!) But Rett’s mom would have understood Lamby, and Eva does too.

Lamby’s new Spanish-speaking sister (I think we decided to name her Evita).
Us with Eva and our growing flock of sheep.

But this left us with a problem: we simply don’t have space to carry two stuffed lambs through South America. The obvious solution was to mail her to one of our (equally-wonderful) package-receiving relatives. But given our abject failure in receiving something shipped to Peru (new leggings from Lululemon), would we have any more luck shipping something from Peru?

It sounded like it was possible, if super-slow (no problem in this case!) to use Serpost, the national postal system. But getting packaging, and understanding the rules and procedures, was likely to be a real problem, so I was prepared for an hours-long slog.

Instead, upon walking into the post office, we were immediately greeted with the smiling face of the polar-opposite of a US Postal Service worker. It might have helped that we showed her Evita’s cuteness, because she then quickly went to the back and found a used box for us to pack her in (which really didn’t seem like standard procedure). Then all throughout the complex process (involving passports, thumbprints, and photos), we had a wonderful conversation, entirely in Spanish, about the friendliness of Peruvians, our travels, and more. So a task that could easily have been a stressful (or impossible!) slog for us ignorant Americans, instead turned out to be a positive and memorable experience all in itself. Eva’s gift just keeps on giving!

Throughout these excursions we continued eating well: collecting more hand-trimned salmon to cook at home from yet another friendly, helpful, and gringo-accomodating vendor at the market, making a third lunch stop at Trivio Restobar with their draft Sierra Andina beers, and finally, on our last night, returning to Ancestral, confirming that our first visit wasn’t just a fluke, and it is genuinely one of the best restaurants we’ve  visited in any country.

Dinner at Ancestral, Huaraz. It remains a mystery why this restaurant, clearly hoping to impress international guests, is so far outside the city center, in a neighborhood where almost zero international visitors venture out to. But we certainly won’t complain about it being just a few blocks from our AirBNB!

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Comments

3 responses to “Huaraz, PE”

  1. Eva Avatar
    Eva

    Gracias por ser parte de los hechos. Saludos 🤗❤️

  2. Daniela Bazán Avatar
    Daniela Bazán

    Such a wonderful experience! I’m from Huaraz too, so I’m glad you’ve been able to enjoy our culture and the best side of us Huaracinos. As Eva’s niece, I really love knowing that people appreciate her for the loving and kind person she is. I hope Evita (the little lamb) gets home safely, and I also hope you continue enjoying your trips and adventures all around the world ✨.
    P.S. I love those photos!!! you’re truly talented! 🥰

    1. neil Avatar
      neil

      Hi Daniela! It’s so cool that Eva has spread our story around to others, and in exchange I hope you enjoyed the “outsider’s” perspective of your place and your people. And I’m glad you appreciate my photos, but I assure you, my talent is minimal…the vast majority of the credit goes to Huaraz and its surroundings…a blind man could take great photos here! 😎

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