We went for breakfast at the Valentina restaurant in front of our hotel. The proprietor again did a great job of communicating simply, and I was proud that I could respond smoothly with “harina” when he asked “maiz o harina” (corn or flour) for my tortillas (yes, that’s what qualifies as “good” Spanish for us).… Read more…

Thanks to the journals of Baja touring cyclists who have preceded us over the years, we have been able to settle into an easy rhythm of ~25 mile days, with known stops available at those intervals. I still don’t know when “high season” in Baja might be, but the empty motels and restaurants tell us… Read more…

The morning: Rett’s eggs for breakfast in our sunny AirBNB, packing up, and then riding through some Sunday brunch(?) crowds on a gringo-ish strip that took us back to Highway 1 leaving Ensenada. There were about 10 miles of semi-urban riding on the multi-lane road, some of which even included bike lanes! Past the Home… Read more…

In the middle of the night I laid awake long enough to convince myself that the sounds I was hearing were not coming from my imagination in the dark, but we’re in fact the sound of an animal trying to eat something. The sound didn’t seem to be coming from where I believed our bikes… Read more…

Wind! We haven’t had to deal with it much so far, but it will likely play a bigger factor in Baja. This morning it wasn’t a soul-sucking open-land headwind, but rather, a gusty crosswind. Which made it tough for Rett to keep the bike controlled on the busy out-of-town highway, and prevented her from looking… Read more…

When we became nomads in autumn of 2021, we had no intention of leaving our native country during our first winter. It was only when we stayed with Jayaram and Aparna in Alameda that Rett became obsessed with the idea to cycle the Baja peninsula (particularly to visit the gray whales), and I slowly came… Read more…