Travel Journal

  • Currituck, NC to Kill Devil Hills, NC

    Currituck, NC to Kill Devil Hills, NC

    Steady and unchanging, or rising and falling. Two different ways to get from Point A to Point B, either literally across the surface of our planet, or metaphorically, across the surface of our lives. In terms of our personalities, I’ve always been the steady one, while Rett swings both higher and lower than me (though Read more…

  • Virginia Beach, VA to Currituck, NC

    Virginia Beach, VA to Currituck, NC

    Last evening, a park ranger pulled into our site with his pickup truck. But he wasn’t there to bust me for my can of beer wrapped in Rett’s bandana; he wanted to talk about bike touring! He had recently gotten back into it, and in 1988 had done an epic loop of Europe, riding through Read more…

  • Nassawadox, VA to Virginia Beach, VA

    Nassawadox, VA to Virginia Beach, VA

    Today we would cross the mouth of the Chesapeake Bay (via the Bridge-Tunnel), which yesterday’s tailwind-fueled longer-than-expected ride allowed us reach a day earlier than planned. The bargain we had struck with our bodies was that today could then be a shorter ~35 mile ride. But then Rett lost her shorts, I realized that Virginia Read more…

  • Snow Hill, MD to Nassawadox, VA

    Snow Hill, MD to Nassawadox, VA

    Our campsite was just as perfect in the morning as it was last night. Crunchy-leaf dry, 58℉, and wind-protected by the surrounding forest. Arachnophobe Rett, to her credit, rejected my offer to also do the morning dishes, and instead steeled herself to face the wall of daddy-long-legs at the dishwashing station. But during my morning Read more…

  • Berlin, MD to Snow Hill, MD

    Berlin, MD to Snow Hill, MD

    This morning, we didn’t even need to go see the sunrise to get the Assateague horses to show up; they were there from the moment I crawled out of the tent. Three of them started about 60 feet away, but slowly came closer to our site, heads down obsessively munching grass the whole time while Read more…

  • Berlin, MD

    Berlin, MD

    Day 2 At 11pm, Rett was asleep, but I was still awake on my phone inside our tent. I suddenly heard loud snuffling near our bikes, and I was 90% sure that Assateauge horses had arrived to investigate. I sat up, and became 100% sure when the moonlight cast a perfect horse-shaped silhouette on Rett’s Read more…

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