We woke to another high-altitude morning cold enough to cover our tent in a thick layer of frost (there had also been some form of light precipitation after we tucked in), but warm enough that our water supply (massed together under the rainfly) didn’t solidify. Despite the breeze that was flapping the rainfly, I was… Read more…

We went to our usual breakfast place, where Rett shocked the waitress by ordering six “pan con huevos” rather than our usual four. Hey, we’re actually riding our bikes today, not just hanging out around town, so we need the extra energy! We weren’t riding immediately though, because Rett’s bike had yet another flat on… Read more…

Even though we were less than 8 mostly-downhill miles from Oyón (yesterday’s goal that we had stopped a bit short of), there was never any question of changing our routing and staying somewhere further tonight. Oyón is a major supply-stop on the Peru Great Divide bikepacking route, and although we decided some time ago that… Read more…

It was 48°F inside our tent when we woke up, and 44°F outside. But ‘outside’ was still inside, because we were set up inside Antacallanca’s municipal building! Since our bikes (and thus 2nd thermometer) were also conveniently inside with us, I don’t know how cold it was in the “real” outside, but despite a lack… Read more…

It was 47°F inside our windowless hotel room when we woke up, which sounds cold until you hear that it was 26°F outside! So as primitive as our accommodation was, it was infinitely better than camping. It was Rett who suggested that Antacolpa felt like a Renaissance Faire town, and that feeling came from more… Read more…

The place we’d found to have breakfast yesterday said they’d be open at 7am today, but they weren’t, so we had to search out a new place. An open door a block away revealed dishes at empty tables, so I guess some people just ate here, right? A couple “Buenos días!”es summoned the husband and… Read more…